Healthy Paws

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Body condition scoring . . . It’s more than just weight.

Have you ever wondered if your cat or dog is overweight? You probably know evaluating your furry companion’s weight and making recommendations about weight loss and nutrition are part of your pet’s annual physical exam, but did you know you can easily evaluate your pet’s body condition at home between visits?

A body condition score (BCS) is a number assigned to your pet based on evaluation of fat at a few key locations on their body. A BCS can range from 1 to 9 (though some hospitals use a 1 to 5 scale). A BCS of 1 means an animal is severely underweight, probably in danger of death from starvation. On the opposite side of scale, a BCS of 9 means an animal is severely overweight, covered in fat, and at risk for suffering from arthritis and diabetes to name a few complications of obesity. An ideal BCS is 4-5 out of 9. For every number above 5, your pet is an extra 10 percent overweight. For example, a dog with body condition score (BCS) of 7 out of 9 is approximately 20 percent overweight.

To determine your pet’s body condition score, you will need to evaluate the ribs, waist, and hips:

• Ribs: At an ideal body condition, you will be able to feel your pet’s ribs easily with flat fingers. If you need to use the tips of your fingers, but can still find the ribs easily, your pet is closer to a 6 out of 9. If you have to really work to find the ribs with your finger tips, that’s a 7 or 8 out of 9. If you can’t find those ribs at all, you’re looking at BCS of 8 or 9 out of 9. On the other side, if you can very easily feel the ribs and just barely see them, that’s a 4 out of 9. If you see your pet’s ribs very easily from across the room, they are too thin with a BCS of 3 or less. There are some exceptions for very lean body type dogs such as greyhounds. You can practice on your hand: Make a fist: The knuckles are 3/9, and the backs of your fingers where your rings would sit is a perfect 5/9; now open your hand, palm up: the knuckles where your fingers meet your palm is a 7/9 and the middle of you palm is a 9/9.
• Waist: There should be a visible “waist” behind the rib cage. In fluffy pets, you should be able to feel it or see it when they are wet. From the side you should be able to see a “tuck” to the abdomen starting where the chest ends and going up toward the hips.
• Hips: Pets get “love handles” just like we do! You should be able to feel the points of the hips easily, with no squishy bulges on any side. If you can clearly see the hip bones or there is no muscle on them, the pet is too thin.

Here are examples of body condition scoring charts for dogs and cats.

Just like us, pets need to calibrate their food intake based on their weight. Having trouble squeezing in to your jeans? You might skip that second bowl of ice cream for a few weeks. Training like Michael Phelps? You need to up those calories to keep up! Similarly, if you have the skills to evaluate your pet’s body condition at home, you can discover when they’re moving past optimal condition and tone down the treats or level out the food scoop until we’re back on track. If your pet is obese, work with your veterinarian to come up with a caloric plan — for both goals of number of calories/day (treats included!) and dietary recommendations. If your pet is losing condition we may need to adjust the diet to a high-calorie/high-activity diet or look into reasons why your pet may be too thin (as we can sometimes see with chronic diseases, nutritional deficiencies, or cancer, among many other causes).

For those of you who like math — the caloric needs of a pet (assuming middle age, ideal body weight and average activity):

Weight (in kilograms) 0.75 x 70 = daily resting energy requirements

Depending on a pet’s body condition, goals for weight loss or weight gain, activity level and age (i.e. growing pets have different caloric requirements than a senior pet) we will use multipliers of 0.75 – 3 to get a better estimation of a pets specific daily caloric requirements.

In obese pets, sometimes just reducing their regular food to the appropriate daily caloric goal doesn’t satisfy them and can actually short them on needed proteins to maintain healthy muscle, so it’s important to discuss anticipated weight loss plans with your pet’s veterinarian. Keep yourself honest with a regular weigh-in schedule and keep track of goals.

By regularly checking in on weight and BCS you and your veterinarian can see if a weight loss/gain plan is working — and tweak things if they’re not.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

In the spirit of the 2016 Olympic games in Rio, we were wondering what the sports would be if dogs had their own Olympics?

Flyball – a team event for groups of four dogs — each one does a series of hurdles, steps on a spring to release a ball, catches the ball, and then goes back over the hurdle. Olympic equivalent – the relay race!

Disc dogs – aka Frisbee dogs – dog and handlers play frisbee, sometimes to choreographed routines.

Dock jumping – a pretty self-explanatory sport in which dogs leap off the end of a dock — the longest jump wins! Olympic equivalent – long jump!

Freestyle – choreographed routines set to music — perhaps a bit like rhythmic gymnastics?

Agility – While Border Collies are known to excel at agility, nearly any breed can be taught these activities and have a great time in the process. Olympic equivalent – hurdles?

Jack Russell Races – just one example of a breed-specific race. These events tend to be popular at fairs and such events.

Lure Coursing – a sport for sighthounds (i.e Greyhounds, Borzoi, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, amongst others) in which an artificial lure is used to simulate chasing live prey through open fields.

Rally Obedience – dog and handler go through a course of 10-20 obedience commands such as “sit-down-sit.”

Ski-joring – aka “ski-driving” – the dog is hooked up to a harness worn by the owner and pulls the skier (on cross-country skis) along.

Bike-joring – dog(s) pulling bike rider.

Sled-pulling – self-explanatory. The Iditarod is the most famous sled race.

Field Trials – a broad category that encompasses general and breed-specific field activities such as pointing, retrieving, flushing, and tracking. Excellent for the hunting breeds such as retrievers, pointers, spaniels, and hounds.

Participating in an organized sport with your dog can be a great bonding and learning experience. It’s also a great way to help your dog stay in shape. Additionally, many dogs love to “have a job,” and especially for those with behavioral issues a “job” can make a huge difference in having a successful outcome.

While in no way inclusive, here are a few area training groups that offer introductions to some of these activities:

Kissable Canine

Fur-Get Me Not

Woofs

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Flea season in our area tends to be late summer and into the fall months, so this is a good time to brush up on your flea knowledge (sounds exciting, right?) to be sure you’re fully prepared for the onslaught of these prodigiously breeding insects.

What exactly is a flea?

Fleas are small (~2-3mm), reddish-brown insects. They feed on the blood of mammals and birds. While they cannot fly, they have incredible jumping ability. According to the website fleascience.com, the average flea can jump about 5 inches high and 9 inches horizontally, though they can reach 8 inches high and nearly 20 inches horizontally.

What is the lifecycle of the flea? And why does it matter? 

Adult female fleas feeding on an animal can start laying eggs within hours, laying up to 50 eggs per day. Eggs develop in the environment, preferring cool dark places (like under fallen leaves — which is why we tend to see an increase in cases of flea infestations in the fall) and indoors along baseboards, carpets, and crevices of furniture or floors. Larvae then develop into pupae, typically preferring the same places as the larval stages. Finally, adults emerge from the pupal stage . . . and start looking for a host to feed on. This whole process can take as little as a few weeks in optimal conditions. However, the larval and pupal stages can also lie dormant for months, and hatch only once they sense the environmental factors are ideal (vibrations from movement, heat and CO2 can all trigger this).

Because of the prodigious egg-laying of the adult flea, it is possible for a single adult female to quickly lead to an infestation. The environment (which can be outdoors OR indoors) quickly becomes contaminated with eggs, larvae, and pupae.

How do I know if my pet has fleas?

Sometimes you will actually see the flea moving along the skin under the hair coat, or even jumping from the pet as you rub their belly. A more reliable way to detect them is to look for “flea dirt,” which is digested and excreted blood. The tail area and behind the ears are two common places to see this.

However, sometimes it’s not a simple diagnosis, especially early on. Some pets are very sensitive to flea bites, and will demonstrate intense itching with only a single bite — in these cases, it may be difficult to detect the fleas.

The classic signs of a pet with fleas are intense itching or chewing around the tail base (and in general). The itch associated with fleas is often more intense than we might see with other causes of itchiness (namely, allergies).

So, fleas are obviously gross, but how bad are they really?

Many animals will exhibit intermittent discomfort or itchiness, but in sensitive pets, even a single bite may cause the pet to be extremely itchy, and the scratching due to that can then lead to secondary skin problems such as bacterial infections and trauma to the skin from all the scratching.

In young puppies and kittens, or severely infested animals, fleas can cause anemia due to blood loss.

The most common form of tapeworms, Diplydium caninum, is also transmitted by fleas. While not a serious health concern, tapeworms are nevertheless just gross, for lack of a better word!

Fleas also carry the bacteria Bartonella, the causative agent of Cat Scratch Disease. Typical transmission is from the scratch of an infected cat (who got the disease from fleas), but there is some thought that infected fleas can transmit directly to humans via a bite.

Plague, caused by the bacteria Yersinia pestis, can also be transmitted by fleas.

Needless to say, there can be some pretty serious health implications secondary due to fleas.

What is the best way to prevent fleas?

Fortunately, long-gone are the days of flea dips and sprays; there are a plethora of options for excellent flea control available. In addition to products that are applied topically (to the skin), there are also oral options.  We recommend consulting with your pet’s veterinarian about the different options and what would be best for your pet.

A word of caution regarding CATS — cats are especially sensitive to the pyrethrin class of flea preventatives, and most veterinarians have seen at least one case of a cat exposed to flea preventative that is intended only for dogs — with violent tremoring, salivation, seizures, and even temporary blindness.  Be sure that the flea preventative you are using on your cat, whether prescription or OTC, is approved for use in cats!

Are there any more natural alternatives for flea prevention?   

At this time, there are no consistently reliable natural alternatives that work as well as conventional drugs. Unfortunately, many herbal flea products are generally ineffective and sometimes toxic at truly effective doses. Most natural products sold over-the-counter only provide one to three days of protection. The commercial herbal sprays are very weak and certified veterinary herbalists note that they only last about 24 hours. The reason they only work for a few days is because while they are likely safe, this means they have to be incredibly diluted. If used daily, even at the diluted level, they can prove to be toxic in the long run.  If you are looking for natural alternatives, it is recommended to do DAILY flea combing. This should be combined with environmental control, which includes very frequent vacuuming and cleaning of floors and baseboards in the home. Additionally, boric acid or diatomaceous earth can be used on the carpet (following manufacturer recommendations) to kill larval stages — however, neither of these is completely free of potential side effects despite being more “natural.”

Do I really need to give flea prevention year-round?  

In short, yes! Again, because all it takes is a single adult flea to set up an infestation in the home, we and the vast majority of veterinarians in our area recommend flea prevention year-round. It doesn’t matter if it’s below freezing outside, as the fleas will be happy little campers inside your toasty warm home.

If my pet has fleas, do I need to have the house treated (“bombed”)? 

It depends.  In mild cases, often just treating the pet effectively, combined with diligent cleaning of the home, will be effective. However, if it’s been a long-standing problem, or there are multiple pets in the home, it is often best to get an exterminator involved to treat the environment.

A word of caution here — there are no available products that can kill the pupal life stage — so it is still imperative to have pets on regular preventative because those pupae will hatch into adults; without the pet being treated, those adult fleas will again be able to set up shop.

Additional Resources:

If You’ve Been Infested

Top 10 Flea Myths

Companion Animal Parasite Council – Flea recommendations

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Stress and anxiety are not a uniquely human problem. We see our pets display behaviors that indicate they are stressed or anxious in a given situation and how they express these anxieties can vary from hair pulling (barbering), pacing, digging, chewing/destructive behaviors, barking/vocalizing and inappropriate elimination, to name a few. What is important to understand is that at their root, these behaviors are based in NORMAL behaviors, but are inappropriately or exaggerated in how they are displayed – and over time can get worse. Author and researcher Laurel Braitman, PhD gave an interesting TED talk and wrote a book on the topic – and is worth watching/reading if you are further interested (especially if you’re interested in how study of animal mental disorders relates to evaluation and treatment of human mental disorders).

Separation anxiety – that is, a fearful response when a dog is separated from someone it is attached to – is a common behavior problem in dogs (but is rarely seen in cats).  The most common complaints from owners of dogs with separation anxiety are destructiveness, house soiling, escape attempts from the house or yard and/or excessive vocalizations when the dog is left alone. The degree of these behaviors can vary from mild to very destructive to the pet’s own body and surroundings.

When presented with a pet that is having separation anxiety – the questions we, as veterinarians, are first interested in have to do with:

• Daily routine and any changes
• Exercise – what and how much?
• Diet – what and how much?
• Medications & supplements – what, for how long and how much?
• Other pets and social interactions
• Other abnormal behaviors or changes to basic bodily functions

We then do a full physical exam to make sure there are no apparent underlying medical problems that need to be addressed. Primary neurological disease, vision problems, hearing (and ear infections), pain and sometimes other medications can play huge roles in exacerbating behavioral abnormalities.  We will often also consider doing baseline metabolic and thyroid function testing to be sure all physical systems are functioning normally, and to have a baseline if we end up considering medication.

Management of separation anxiety (and other anxious behaviors) should always involve behavior modification training that often includes desensitization and counterconditioning. Positive social interaction is often very beneficial for anxieties in general and is in all honesty a form of counterconditioning. In some cases, supplements or pharmacologic interventions may be needed to help bridge training sessions or for long term management. What does not work well is the use of medication in the absence of appropriate training and behavior modification. And let’s be clear and honest – the latter is the hard part, it’s the part that often requires professional one-on-one help and is the part that sometimes takes the longest…but it’s also the most rewarding part. It’s the part that allows you to connect with your pet and really help them become more confident and comfortable.

If your pet is experiencing separation anxiety, below are some resources where you can get guidance on how you can help you pet be more comfortable and confident on their own. We strongly recommend working with your veterinarian – make sure that your pet has no underlying physical health problems, make sure diet and exercise are appropriate for your pet, and get some initial feedback and guidance for resources to help manage your fur-baby at home.  But as we just said above – training and behavior modification is KEY to a successful management of an anxious pet…how does one find that extra help? Well, there folks who do an amazing job with behavior issues in our fur-children. Your veterinarian can likely point you to trusted resources and general guidelines on what qualifications to look for can be found here and the ASPCA has very similar guidelines. The Animal Behavior Society has a directory of Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists, Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDT) are also well versed in the training aspects of managing behavioral problems and then there are veterinary behaviorists – veterinarians who have years of additional training/research/education in behavior and are board-certified in their field. In the DC area we have two: Dr. Marsha Reich, DVM & Dr. Leslie Sinn, DVM.

For those really interested in learning more about their dog’s behavior – Decoding Your Dog is an excellent and informative read, as is How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.

Additional online resources:

Dr. Sophia Yin’s blog: Separation Anxiety

Cornell Veterinary School’s Feline Health Center: Behavioral Problems

ASPCA: Separation Anxiety

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Inappropriate urination with our pets is a difficult problem to deal with at home — but often times with a bit of investigation, the root of the problem can be found and addressed. In cats, inappropriate urination is one of the most common reasons for the pet to be surrendered to a shelter and is the most common reason for an otherwise healthy cat to present to a veterinary clinic for euthanasia. In both dogs and cats, inappropriate urination falls into two basic categories: 1) medical and 2) behavioral.

Medical causes of inappropriate urination can be broken down to problems that cause an animal to drink more (and thus produce more urine, which then is more dilute and large in volume and harder to hold in) and problems that cause increased urination (such as irritation of the bladder).

Digging deeper into why a pet would inappropriately urinate starts with the basics of checking a urine sample. When we check a urine sample (urinalysis), we’re looking for concentration, pH, presence of red blood cells/white blood cells, protein, crystals and glucose. Bladder infections (UTI) can often be readily diagnosed with with a urinalysis, but sometimes a urine culture is needed to truly find/confirm an infection but also to determine what the best antibiotic should be.

Further Medical Work Up:

If the case of the inappropriate urination is not readily apparent with a urinalysis, then a further workup is indicated before calling the problem behavioral.

Imaging of the bladder is sometimes recommended and indicated to find out what’s going on. Bladder stones and masses/tumors of the bladder wall or urethra can lead to repeated lower urinary tract symptoms, accidents, straining to urinate or even urethral obstruction (i.e. inability to urinate).

Blood work to look for systemic illness (such as kidney and liver function, diabetes, thyroid conditions, etc.) may also be indicated.  

Musculoskeletal diseases such as arthritis can lead to inappropriate urination if they cause the animal to be uncomfortable while posturing to urinate, get in/out of the litter box, etc. Addressing pain, when present, can often not only make the pet overall more comfortable, but can also help eliminate the inappropriate urination.

Behavioral causes:

Once medical problems have been eliminated, it’s time to consider a behavioral cause.   

For cats, behavioral causes of inappropriate urination are not uncommon and there are numerous ways to address the behavior before the use of pharmacologic intervention is considered. Cornell has put together a fantastic resource for owners and veterinarians with great tips such as:

• Litter box placement, number and substrates
• Addressing inter-cat aggression
• Cleaning soiled areas
• Use of feline pheromones such as Feliway

For dogs, behavioral causes of inappropriate urination often are secondary to loss of house training or house training that was never really solidified with the dog. Submission, excitement and anxiety can also be reasons why a dog would inappropriately urinate – and can all be managed with appropriate training and sometimes pharmacologic intervention. We strongly recommend the use of a reputable trainer (look for Certified Professional Dog Trainers who are Knowledge Assessed – CPDT-KA; or Applied Animal Behaviorist / Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists – CAABs / Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists -ACAABs)  to help with house training or even to employ the help of a veterinary behaviorist for very challenging cases.

While inappropriate urination is a very frustrating problem, with a bit of investigation and diligent follow-through it’s rare that the problem cannot be corrected.  Be sure to talk with your veterinarian if you are noticing that your pet is urinating outside the box or in the house.  (And, if you are going to see the veterinarian about a urination problem, they will be super appreciative if you bring a urine sample from home, and/or do not allow your pet urinate right before coming into the office so that he/she has a full bladder for evaluation).

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

The word anesthesia tends to induce a feeling of apprehension in many of us. You may have heard or read about a pet that experienced an adverse effect with anesthesia. However, anesthesia in veterinary medicine has come a long ways in the past 10-20 years, and we’d like to address some of the questions and concerns surrounding the matter.  

Just what IS anesthesia?  

According to Merriam-Webster, anesthesia is the “loss of sensation, with or without loss of consciousness;” though most of us think of the loss of consciousness associated with general anesthesia when we think of the word anesthesia. General anesthesia refers to anesthesia of the whole body, and typically infers a loss of consciousness.  General anesthesia is often induced with injectable drugs, and maintained with inhaled gases. Local anesthesia refers to anesthesia that only affects an area of the body, and may or may not be associated with a loss of consciousness. Local anesthesia, aka a “nerve block” is given as an injection (or in some cases may be applied topically directly to the skin) directly around the area that will be subject to pain.  

Are sedation and anesthesia the same thing?

No, typically not.  Sedation refers to inducing a state where the patient is calm/relaxed and may or may not be conscious. Sedation may be used to help reduce anxiety and pain and facilitate minor procedures (such as x-rays or bandage changes, etc…) in a patient that is painful, fearful or otherwise difficult to handle.  

What are the risks of anesthesia?

In the vast majority of cases, any risks of anesthesia are more closely associated with the procedure itself or with the animal’s underlying disease, than with the drugs themselves.  Hypotension, or low blood pressure, and respiratory depression (decreased breathing) are two of the main side effects of many anesthetic protocols.  Fortunately, with diligent monitoring of the patient while under anesthesia, these side effects can be effectively minimized or controlled.  

Very rarely, an idiosyncratic or unpredictable reaction to one of the anesthesia drugs may occur.  By its very nature, this cannot be predicted or prepared for ahead of time.  Careful monitoring of the patient under anesthesia and the use of short-acting or reversible drugs may help mitigate risks associated with this.    

Less serious risks include vomiting or nausea following anesthesia, or prolonged sedation; but even these risks and side effects can often be managed with anti-nausea support and choosing a drug protocol that takes into careful consideration a patient’s health and metabolic status.  

(more…)

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Last time, we talked about getting comfortable with the at-home exam so that you are comfortable knowing what is normal for your pet.  This week, we’ll focus on what constitutes an emergency and give you some guidelines for when to seek immediate care.

Things that warrant immediate veterinary attention include:

• Any severe difficulty in breathing – increased abdominal effort to breathing, bluish-discoloration to the gums, open-mouth breathing in cats
• Anaphylaxis (severe allergic reaction) – typically manifested as collapse or extreme lethargy, severe vomiting or diarrhea that is acute in nature, or severe facial swelling**
  • **Mild facial swelling may sometimes be treated on an outpatient basis or even at home with the advice of your veterinarian and is rarely life-threatening; however, in severe cases the swelling can be so significant as to partially occlude the airway, making immediate treatment vitally important
• Ongoing bleeding that is not responding to applied pressure
• Dragging limbs, ataxia (“drunk” walking), or inability to walk

• Extreme lethargy/depression
• Temperature greater than 105 degrees F
• Prolonged seizures or more than 2 seizures in 24 hours
  • A single seizure does not always warrant immediate veterinary attention if the patient is alert and “back to normal” quickly thereafter; however, we always recommend contacting your veterinarian if your pet has a seizure and has no previous history of them
• Bite wounds — with penetrating bite wounds, what we see from the surface is often “only the tip of the iceberg” — thus, it’s usually best to seek veterinary attention for all but the most superficial of bite wounds
• Protracted vomiting and/or diarrhea – in many cases, a single episode of vomiting or diarrhea does not need immediate attention; however, if it is accompanied by lethargy or other symptoms we recommend at least consulting with your veterinarian.
• Fractured limbs or penetrating wounds
• Injuries to the eye — in general, our rule of thumb with any acute issue affecting the eye is that it should be seen as quickly as possible to ensure treatment is started in a timely manner
• Known or high suspicion of ingestion of a toxin/poison or foreign object
• Last but not least, you know your pet best of all, so even if there is not an obvious or clear-cut problem but you just feel that something is “off” we recommend consulting with your veterinarian.

What can I do while getting veterinary help?

• Stay calm
• Contact your veterinary hospital, or the emergency hospital if after-hours, to get advice and to let them know you are coming in so they can be fully prepared
• If known trauma, keep your pet warm and keep movement to a minimum
• Drive carefully on your way in!

We are fortunate to have many great emergency hospitals in the area, which serve as an excellent resource for you and your pets during hours when your primary veterinarian may not be available.

The American Veterinary Medical Association recently released a video on pet CPR, which we encourage everyone to watch at least once.

And, as we mentioned in the last installment, there are some really great online resources available:

• American Red Cross Pet First Aid app
• PetSaver app / PetTech website
• ASPCA mobile app
• First Aid Kit list

Check out Clarendon Animal Care’s Calendar of Upcoming Events, including the AWLA Walk for the Animals on 5/7, Taste of Arlington on 5/15, and a Yappy Hour to benefit AWLA on 5/26!

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month. We’ve all likely had the experience of having a sick or injured pet and wondering whether emergency treatment is needed or if it is something that can wait until your primary veterinarian is open in the morning.

The first step in knowing if there is a problem is knowing what is normal for your pet. This is why we recommend regularly performing an at-home health assessment:

• My pet is behaving normally, active and in good spirits

• My pet’s appetite is normal with no difficulty in chewing or swallowing

• My pet breathes normally, without straining or effort

• My pet urinates in the usual amounts and frequency, with no pain or difficulty when eliminating

• My pet has normal appearing bowel movements, with no pain or difficulty when eliminating

• My pet walks without stiffness, pain or difficulty

• My pet’s feet look healthy and its nails are short

• My pet’s coat is full, glossy and in good condition

• My pet’s skin is free from dry flakes and not greasy

• My pet has no fleas, ticks, lice or mites

• My pet’s ears are clean and odor free

• My pet’s eyes are bright, clear and free of matter

• My pet’s nose is moist and free from discharge

• My pet’s teeth are clean and his breath is not foul-smelling

• My pet’s gums are glistening and pink

• When I run my hands over my pet’s entire body, there are no lumps or bumps

While the answers to the above might not all be yes, especially in an elderly pet, or one with pre-existing conditions, if there’s a change from your pet’s norm then this is potential cause for concern. So, again, knowing what’s normal is key!   

Normal vital signs for cats & dogs:

• Dogs and cats have a higher temperature than we do — normal is 99.5-102.5 F.  Because of this, they will usually feel “warm” to us, but this does not necessarily mean that they have a fever.   
• The normal resting respiratory rate of a dog and cat should be less than 35.  Again, it is helpful to know what is normal for your pet, especially if they have underlying cardiac disease
• The normal resting heart rate is a bit more difficult to assess and can be quite variable among cats and dogs.  
  • Large-breed dog (>50#) – 60-100 beats per minute (bmp)
  • Medium-breed dog (25-50#) – 80-120 bpm
  • Small-breed dog (<25#) – 80-140 bpm
  • Cat – 120-160bpm

In two weeks we’ll discuss what may constitute a pet emergency, and some key tips to keep in mind in those cases.

In the meantime, here are a few great online resources:

• American Red Cross Pet First Aid app
• PetSaver app
• ASPCA mobile app
• First Aid Kit list

Please check out Clarendon Animal Care’s Calendar of Upcoming Events, including a Yappy Hour to benefit our local shelter, the AWLA Walk for the Animals, and Taste of Arlington!

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

As the weather gets nicer, we’re all eager to get outdoors with our dogs for some exercise and recreation, so we want to share a few resources with you as you’re looking for some dog-friendly recreation options.

First and foremost, we are really excited about the Pups in the Park events offered by Arlington County. These naturalist-guided walks are a great way to get outdoors with your dog and also learn something along the way. (Pre-register on the website from the link above).

• The Carnivore Way: Sat., Mar. 26, 10-11 a.m. Adults. Your dog is part of a large group of mammals known as carnivores. Find out what defines a carnivore and how they survive in the wild as we walk with our canine friends through Glencarlyn Park. For information: 703-228-6535. Meet at Long Branch Nature Center. Free.#632946-A.
• Naturalist Guided Trail Sniff: Sat., Apr. 30, 10:30 a.m. – 12 p.m. Adults. Explore the trails with your dog at Potomac Overlook Regional Park with a naturalist for a fun hike. Learn about wildlife your pup might encounter in the park, and many of the scents that attract and interest canines. Meet at Potomac Overlook Regional Park, 2845 N. Marcey Road, Arlington. Free. #632946-B.
• Sniffing and Listening: Sunday, May 1, 2-3 p.m. Adults. Dogs sense the world differently than we do. Acute hearing and sensitive noses give canines access to stimuli that we cannot sense. Bring your dog along on this naturalist-led hike and see the world through a wild canine’s senses. For information: 703-228-3403. Meet at Gulf Branch Nature Center. Free. #632846-C.

In addition to the parks above, there are many other great locations for hiking in and around Arlington with your dog.

Dining al fresco with your pet is a great way for them to get some fresh air and do some “doggy watching.” Some area restaurants offer outdoor patio seating for patrons with pets.  Just be sure to check before you head out to be sure dogs are, in fact, allowed, as ordinances vary by location.  

A few things to keep in mind no matter where are venturing out to with your pet:

• Please clean up after your dog — pet waste left behind eventually makes its way to our waterways and drinking supply.  
• If your dog is not well-socialized or nervous or aggressive around other dogs, a group activity may not be for him or her.  Start slow and work your way up to larger group activities. The Arlington Shelter has a great group called the Pit Crew, which sponsors group walks providing guardians of ALL dog breeds an opportunity to exercise and socialize their dogs in a controlled setting.
• Respect all leash laws. The vast majority of outdoor recreation options for dogs in our area do require that your dog be on a leash.  
• Be sure your pet is up-to-date on their Rabies vaccination, AND has a valid county registration tag.  

And, stay tuned for our upcoming “Yappy Hours” in and around Clarendon, as well as our Bark in the Park event June 5th at the Clarendon Dog Park!