Healthy Paws

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

We understand that taking your pet to the veterinarian can be sometimes be stressful or frustrating. At Clarendon Animal Care, we use numerous stress-free techniques to make the visit easier for you and your pet. But below are a few tips that can help any veterinary visit run a bit more smoothly:

1. Accustom your pet to its carrier and to traveling in the car. Positive reinforcement along with a gradual (re)introduction can go a long way win pets that are apprehensive about the car/carrier.
2. If your veterinarian doesn’t already have your pet’s medical record on file, bring it with you or have your previous veterinary team send or fax the records — or, at a minimum, bring your own notes on your pet’s health and medical history. Don’t send your pet with a person who doesn’t have the information the vet will need to help your pet — or if you have to do this, thoroughly document your pet’s current condition on paper and make sure you’re available by phone to answer questions that may come up. If possible, having records sent in advance of your appointment will allow us to review them more thoroughly for a more meaningful conversation during your appointment.
3. Arrive on time or a few minutes early for your appointment. This allows time for any paperwork as well as allows everyone to be a little less rushed.
4. Unless your children can generally behave without distracting you or interfering with your veterinary team’s ability to examine or treat your pet or talk to you about your pet, consider leaving your children with a babysitter while you take your pet to the veterinarian. That said, we are parents of small children ourselves and try to make it a fun experience for kids — we have some small children’s toys and generally enjoy indulging inquisitive young kids. But, if you know having your kids with you will be a major distraction, finding an alternative activity for them will allow for a more efficient and effective visit.
5. Turn your cell phone off while you are in the exam room. This allows for fewer distractions while we discuss your pet.
6. Know what medications your pet is receiving (including supplements), as well as how much, how often and how long it is given, and/or bring them with you. A written list, including dosages, is also helpful!
7. Share your observations and concerns with your veterinarian – after all, you know your pet better than anyone else does. Don’t hesitate to bring up your observations and concerns no matter how small or insignificant they may seem.
8. Ask questions and ask again until you have a good understanding of what’s going on and ask for your answers in writing! This helps with relay of information back at home and gives you something to reference later on.
9. Ask for handouts, brochures, or even reputable online sources of information about your pet’s condition. The more you understand your pet’s condition, the better we can work together to manage it.
10. Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations. They’re given for one very important reason — to keep your pet healthy. Along these lines, if you feel that you’re not getting the desired or expected outcome with our recommendations, let us know! There are often many ways to address or treat a problem, and we can’t make timely changes to a treatment plan if we don’t know how it is working (good or bad). Your input and follow up is an integral part of a treatment plan!

We hope your next veterinary visit runs smoothly, is low-stress and ends with a clear treatment plan!

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Clarendon Animal Care presents K9 Harmony’s Guide to Keeping Your Dog Healthy and Happy at the Dog Park:

Images of a dog park brings to mind wagging tails and romping pups. The dog park can be a great way for your dog to get some much needed exercise and social time with other friendly pups, however there are some important things to keep in mind!

1. Remember that puppies and adult dogs play very differently. If you have a young puppy,  avoid taking them to the dog park until they are at least six months of age. Teaching them to be calm around other dogs on-leash is still socialization, and just as important if not more so, than the opportunity to run off-leash with adult dogs. When you go initially, try to avoid peak times so as to not overwhelm them.

2. Watch out for prey-driven behaviors such as a group of dogs chasing one dog around and around the park. This can result in injury, not to mention an unpleasant experience for that dog! Appropriate play consists of each pair or group of dogs alternating roles, for example one dog may be chasing the other dog, but shortly after they may be being chased. Some dogs love to wrestle! If that’s the case, make sure that if a dog is laying on it’s back, it has the opportunity to get up rather than being held in that position by another dog.

3. If your dog is small (about 25 lbs and under) consider taking them to a park that has a separate small dog area, or at off times. Your small dog may act like they want to run with the big dogs, but they can easily bite off more than they can chew and get injured from rough play with a larger dog.

4. Mill around the dog park rather than staying stationary! Dogs tend to gather where we humans are standing in the dog park. By keeping yourself and others moving, you’ll keep the dogs moving too. This will spread everyone out and minimize the chances of a dog fight!

5. Learn your dog’s body language! Not all wagging tails are friendly, and not all panting is the result of heavy exercise. These can be signs of stress and that your dog is uncomfortable. Instead, make sure your dog is moving in a fluid manner, with a loose body and a tail wagging at back level.

6. Keep your eye on your dog! Your dog should be under your direct supervision while at the park. If you’re having a conversation with some other dog owners, make sure you’re still cognizant of what your dog is up to and able to act if you need to interrupt inappropriate play.

7. Make sure your dog is fantastic about coming to you when called! There’s nothing worse than having to chase your dog around the dog park when YOU’RE ready to go home. You’ll strengthen your relationship with your dog and have a safer experience because of it!

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

We are very fortunate to live in such a pet-friendly community, but it is nevertheless important to respect our neighbors and community members, especially when it comes to dog parks. Here in Clarendon, the dog park is especially closely surrounded by residential buildings, making it all the more important to consider the rules and regulations of the parks.

As a refresher, these are the Arlington County rules and regulations relating to dog parks:

1. All dogs must be licensed and vaccinated before entering a dog park.
2. Dogs less than four months old are not permitted in a dog park.
3. Female dogs in heat are not allowed in a dog park at any time.
4. No food is allowed within the boundaries of a dog park.
5. A handler/guardian may bring in no more than three dogs at a time.
6. Professional dog trainers may not use any dog parks to conduct business, unless sponsored by Arlington County.
7. All dogs must be leashed when entering and exiting a dog park.
8. Handlers/guardians must be in possession of their dog’s leash at all times.
9. Handlers/guardians must remain with their dog and be in view of their dog at all times.
10. Handlers/guardians are responsible for the removing of dog waste from a dog park and disposing of it in a proper receptacle.
    Important a side note:  a recent random sampling of stools left behind at the Clarendon Dog Park revealed Giardia cysts, hookworms, AND roundworms! We see a surprisingly high number of cases of Giardia and other intestinal parasites in this area — picking up your dog’s poop doesn’t just apply to dog parks, but should be rule-of-thumb whenever you are out walking. Even in the backyard, these parasites are all very hardy and can persist in the environment for quite a long time.
11. Dogs must be removed at the first sign of aggression. Aggressive dogs shall not be permitted within any designated off-leash dog parks. An “aggressive dog” is defined as a dog that poses a threat to humans or other animals. Handlers/guardians are legally responsible for their dog and any injury caused by them.
12. Handlers/guardians must not allow their dogs to bark on a continuous or frequent basis.
13. It is unlawful for any person who owns, possesses or harbors a dog to permit that dog to create a frequent or continued noise disturbance across a real property boundary or within a nearby dwelling unit.
14. Handlers/guardians, prior to leaving a dog park, must fill holes dug by their dog.
15. Dog grooming is not allowed in any dog park, unless it is part of an Arlington County-sponsored program.
16. Parents must be in control of their children at all times in a dog park.
17. Violations of the leash law, pooper-scooper law and running-at-large law can result in a summons to appear in court and a fine of $100.
18. Both Rabies vaccination tags and County Dog License tags are required to be secured on your dog’s collar at all times.

While most “etiquette” as it relates to dog parks actually pertains to us as the handlers/guardians and not our dogs, there are some dogs that are better suited for play at a dog park than others and some things we, as owners, can be doing to ensure our dog has a good experience at the park.

Join us for a lecture/Q&A on Dog Park Etiquette with local dog trainer Leila Sheikhy of K9 Harmony Tuesday, Jan. 19 at 7 p.m. at our office at 3000 10th Street N, Suite B.

Have a pet-related topic you’d like us to address?  Send us an email at [email protected].

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine (TCVM) — although relatively new to the Western world — is a medical system that has been used in China to treat animals for thousands of years. It is an adaptation and extension of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) used to treat humans and is made up of four branches: Acupuncture, Herbal Medicine, Food Therapy and Tui-na massage.

Speaking broadly, Chinese Medicine is a complete body of thought and practice grounded in Chinese Daoist philosophy. Though it can be traced back over two millennia in recorded history, it — like any medical system — continues to evolve today, and current research on acupuncture and herbal medicine is beginning to shed light on its mechanism of action.

Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine, when combined with Western Veterinary Medicine, can help to promote health and prevent disease in animals.

Common FAQs About Acupuncture

Q: What is acupuncture?

It is the insertion of needles into specific points on the body to produce a healing response. These points are related to internal organs and can help many different ailments. It is most commonly used to relieve musculoskeletal issues, such as arthritis, intervertebral disk disease and even some nerve injuries. However, it can also be used for all of the following:

• Respiratory problems, such as feline asthma
• Skin problems, such as skin irritation secondary to allergies
• Gastrointestinal disorders, such as irritable bowel disease and chronic diarrhea
• Geriatric medicine, such as chronic kidney failure and some cases of heart failure
• Behavior issues, such as separation anxiety
• Promotes quality of life after a diagnosis of cancer

Acupuncture stimulates nerves, increases blood circulation, relieves muscle spasms and releases endorphins in the body to aid in the healing process. Combining acupuncture, massage therapy, and herbal therapy can make wonderful tools for your pet’s health.

Q: Is acupuncture painful?

For most animals, insertion of the needles is virtually painless. They are very thin and once the needles are inserted, there should be no pain. Most animals become extremely relaxed and some will fall asleep! Some common sensations after needle insertion are tingling, mild numbness and heat at the needle points.

Q: Is acupuncture safe for animals?

If administered by a properly trained veterinarian, acupuncture can be one of the safest forms of medical treatment for animals. Some animals will experience lethargy or sleepiness after the first few treatments, but side effects such as nausea or GI upset are rarely seen.

Q: How can my pet benefit from acupuncture?

Acupuncture blocks pain responses, increases serotonin levels and relaxes muscles. All of these effects are useful in most commonly-seen conditions with animals. In addition, it can help to balance organ functions and normalize energy (Qi) flow, which is the goal of Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine.

How to Get Acupuncture for Your Pet

Clarendon Animal Care is proud to announce the addition of Dr. Darleen Nath to our staff. In addition to being trained in western medicine and earning her DVM degree from Tuskegee University in Tennessee, she attended The Chi Institute in Gainesville, FL to become a Certified Veterinary Acupuncturist in 2014. She has also completed the coursework for her certification in Tui Na massage therapy.

If you are interested in acupuncture for your pets, please call the clinic to set up an initial consultation appointment with Dr. Nath. The first visit will include a traditional western exam, a traditional eastern exam and the first acupuncture session.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

While your pet is likely already at the top of the holiday shopping list (because who doesn’t love shopping for our pets?!), in case you needed some ideas, here are a few of our favorite pet and pet-lover gift ideas:

1. Dog Blueprints (and Cat Blueprints) — Super cute prints of your favorite species. Available in “mutt” too.
2. Slow feeder bowls — For the dog or cat that eats their food before it’s hit the bowl! These nifty bowls help to slow down eating times and also provide entertainment for your pet.
3. Flik-it ball tosser — In case you have a sore arm from tossing the ball over and over…and over and over…and over and over…
4. Furminator — This shedding tool is amazing! You could probably create a new pet with the hair will get off.
5. An airplane cat house — The picture says it all!
6. L.L.Bean pet beds — Easily washable, and generous sizing to boot.
7. BarkBox — A monthly box of goodies, delivered to your door! They come with size-appropriate toys and treats and keep those dogs active and engaged.
8. Meowbox — Get unique cat toys and treats every month! These toys and treats are selected to cater to your kitty’s discriminating taste.
9. ASPCA Slip-On — Stylish and supports a great cause!
10. GPS Tracking Collars — While your pet might object to “big brother” following his or her every move, this could prove invaluable if they aren’t so well-versed in the “come” command or tend to venture off on their own. (And if nothing else it can be entertaining to follow their whereabouts during the day.)

And for the kind charitable giver in you:

• The Animal Welfare League of Arlington has a wish list of needed items
• Lucky Dog Rescue is always looking for food and supplies to care for their fosters
• Homeward Trails is always in need of animal, cleaning and office supplies

At Clarendon Animal Care, we have donation collection boxes set up for the Animal Welfare League of Arlington and Lucky Dog Rescue. Drop off needed goods and we’ll get them delivered at the end of the month!

We hope everyone and their fur-kids have a safe, healthy and love-filled holiday.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Boarding & Alternatives

The winter holiday season is amongst the busiest times of year for boarding facilities and dog-sitters, so it’s a great time to address boarding/pet-sitting and how to make these experiences as safe, happy, and stress-free for both you and your pets.

Should I board or have someone come to pet-sit?

The answer to this really depends on your individual pet’s personality.  Social, active, or younger dogs may do better in a boarding situation where they will get to interact and play with other dogs. However, older, more reserved, shy, or easily stressed dogs may do better staying in their home environment and having someone come in to care for them (or even stay with them at the house).

Cats tend to do best staying in their home environment, or boarding somewhere with a dedicated space for cats. Barking dogs and lots of commotion can understandably be very stressful for them.

How do I decide where to board my pet(s)?

A recommendation from a trusted source is a great place to start. If time permits, you may want to schedule a visit to the facility to check it out ahead of time and address any questions in person.

What should I look for in a pet-sitter?  

Again, a recommendation from a friend, veterinarian, or other trusted source is a good starting point. However, we do recommend checking references, as you are entrusting someone to come into your home. If you are working with a company you are unfamiliar with, we recommend checking references and going with a company that is licensed, bonded, and insured.

Are there alternatives to boarding or having someone come to the house?

With a bit of research, you may be able to find someone that will take your pet into their home while you are away. This is a good option for pets that do not do well in a boarding facility or when someone coming to the house is not an option.

How early do I need to make a reservation?

This depends on the time of year. If you are looking to reserve a spot for your pet for the winter holiday season you need to do so now as this is the busiest time of year.

What should I bring with my pet to the boarding facility?

We recommend talking to the boarding facility directly to find out if you are able to bring your pet’s own bed, toys, etc. We do recommend bringing their own food, as sudden diet changes are one of the reasons that diarrhea is more common in boarding or recently boarded dogs.

If your pet is on medication, make sure the boarding facility/pet sitter is comfortable giving medications and is aware of the underlying conditions for which your pet has been placed on medications. Make sure they know what complications or problems might arise from your pets underlying condition as well as the medications they are on.

What are the potential health risks with boarding?

Diarrhea is one of the most common symptoms we see in dogs that are boarding or have recently boarded. While it would seem logical that this is because of increased exposure to viruses and bacteria, it more often is due to a “nervous belly,” causing an upset in the normal bacterial flora in the GI tract and leading to “stress colitis.” For dogs that we know have a history of diarrhea or soft stool while boarding, starting a probiotic a day or two beforehand and continuing during the time away from home may help control symptoms. Bringing his or her own food can also help decrease the likelihood of GI upset.

Tracheobronchitis (aka “Kennel Cough”) is perhaps the most well-known health condition associated with boarding. The symptoms of kennel cough — a harsh, dry, upper airway cough — can be caused by many different viruses and bacteria, not just Bordetella bronchiseptica, the main bacteria protected against by the “kennel cough vaccine.” (Some kennel cough vaccines also include Parainfluenza and Adenovirus Type 2).

This is most likely why we still see cases of kennel cough in dogs that are vaccinated appropriately — there are lots of players involved! If you know your pet is particularly susceptible to kennel cough, a pet-sitter may be a good option for them instead of the kennel.

With just a bit or preparation on your part, your pets can have a happy and healthy getaway or “staycation” while their family is away!

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

As the final topic in our series on pet food labels, we’ll address perhaps the least exciting but most confusing aspect of the food label: the guaranteed analysis.

“Guaranteed Analysis” is the pet food industry’s equivalent of the Nutritional Facts box we are so used to seeing on our own products. The four main ingredients listed are crude protein, fat, fiber, and moisture. Many cat foods will also list the maximum percentage of the mineral component “ash,” as well as taurine and magnesium, and some dog foods will also list various electrolytes.

Guaranteed analyses are listed on an “AS FED” basis, meaning the actual amount in the product. This is not that relevant when comparing one dry food to another dry food; however, when comparing a dry food to a canned food there will be significant differences in any of these levels due to the moisture difference.

For example, the percentage protein on a canned diet may be 12 percent, but on a dry food basis is 29 percent. Initially, it seems that the dry food has more protein; however, once the 75 percent moisture of the canned food it taken into account it is clear that the canned food actually has higher protein levels. To best compare levels of nutrients, it is necessary to convert to “DRY MATTER BASIS,” meaning that all the moisture in the diet is taken into consideration.

In simplified terms, most dry foods have 10 percent moisture (90 percent dry matter), and most canned foods have 75 percent moisture (25 percent dry matter).  In order to determine the amount of protein/fat/etc. on a dry matter basis, divide the amount of nutrient  by the amount of dry matter (i.e. label shows a guaranteed analysis of 25 percent protein and 10 percent moisture (90 percent dry matter), meaning the actual dry matter protein is 0.25/0.9 = 28 percent protein; versus a canned food label showing 10 percent protein and 75 percent moisture, which would be 0.1/0.25 = 40 percent protein.

But, rather than straining your brain with a lot of math while you’re perusing the overwhelming number of foods at the pet store, just remember that the amount of dry matter in dry foods is about four times that in canned foods. So, you can easily compare the dry matter between foods by multiplying the canned food values by four.

In addition to the guaranteed analysis, “as fed” and “dry matter basis” come into play in the ingredient list as well, which we touched on in an earlier post. Ingredients are listed by weight. However, moisture can make a significant difference in the weight of a particular ingredient. For example, as the FDA website points out:

“For example, one pet food may list ‘meat’ as its first ingredient and ‘corn’ as the second ingredient. The manufacturer doesn’t hesitate to point out that its competitor lists ‘corn’ first (‘meat meal’ is second), suggesting the competitor’s product has less animal-source protein than its own. However, meat is very high in moisture (approximately 75 percent water). On the other hand, water and fat are removed from meat meal, so it is only 10 percent moisture (what’s left is mostly protein and minerals). If we could compare both products on a dry matter basis (mathematically ‘remove’ the water from both ingredients), one could see that the second product had more animal-source protein from meat meal than the first product had from meat, even though the ingredient list suggests otherwise.”

Thus, it is important to take into account not only percentages but the formulation of the diet when comparing labels and evaluating the ingredient list.

When it comes to pet foods, we have to address feeding human food as food labels, guaranteed analysis, etc. all kind of get thrown out the window. We don’t recommend ‘winging it’ with your pet’s nutrition — they’re truly not small humans. If you’re wanting to cook your pet a diet, we strongly recommend working with a veterinary nutritionist (such as the nutrition service provided by the veterinary teaching hospital at Virginia Tech or BalanceIT) to make sure it is balanced and complete and that any illness or disease process is being considered in the diet as well.

Along the lines of human food, feeding table scraps are a good way to end up with a fat pet and also can increase their risk of GI upset. As we approach Thanksgiving, it is very common to see an increase in cases of pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas) as holidays tend to be a time when pets are especially likely to be getting extra treats from family members and visitors and also more likely to get into stuff when we’re distracted.

Most human food is too rich or too high in fat for most pets. We strongly recommend being strict with the table scraps, keeping food away from counter-surfing canines (and felines too!) and trash cans inaccessible to the rummaging furry family — which will lead to a happier and healthier holiday for all!

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

In our third article on veterinary nutrition, we’re going to address some of the other terms found on pet food labels that don’t quite fit on the AAFCO feeding statement or ingredient list.

There are a number of terms that are used as part of marketing but really do very little to give us additional information about the ingredients or quality of the food. The United States Food & Drug Administration regulates pet food labels and has specific regulations regarding proper product identification, net quantity statement, name and place of business of the manufacturer or distributor, and proper listing of all the ingredients in the product based on weight (ordered most to least).

Products labeled as “premium” or “gourmet” are not required to contain any different or higher quality ingredients, nor are they held up to any higher nutritional standards than are any other complete and balanced products.

The term “natural” does not have an official definition either, though AAFCO has developed a feed term definition for what types of ingredients can be considered “natural” and “Guidelines for Natural Claims” for pet foods. For the most part, “natural” can be considered as a lack of artificial flavors, artificial colors, or artificial preservatives in the product. For high-fat dry products, some form of preservative must be used to prevent rancidity. Natural-source preservatives, such as mixed tocopherols (a source of vitamin E), can be used in place of artificial preservatives. However, they may not be as effective.

“Natural” is not the same as “organic.” The latter term refers to the conditions under which the plants were grown or animals were raised and currently only has a regulatory definition in human food. The United States Department of Agriculture is working to develop regulations dictating what types of synthetic additives, such as vitamins and purified amino acids, may be used in pet foods labeled as organic.

Health claims on pet foods are enforced by discretion of the FDA, but there are few health claims that pet foods companies can legally make. Claims that food can reduce, prevent or treat a disease are only permitted on veterinary medical diets, and even then, these foods are only allowed to convey the information on the relationship of a diet and disease in veterinary-directed literature to help veterinarians treat their patients appropriately (otherwise the diet would be considered a drug and have to be approved as such). The labels, including product names, cannot include names of diseases; this is why many of these veterinary medical foods are named with initials or numbers.

A great resource for owners and veterinarians regarding pet foods is the Pet Nutrition Alliance. And in a couple weeks, we’ll round out our nutrition series with a breakdown of the “guaranteed analysis” of pet food labels.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.