Healthy Paws

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Last week we started a series of discussions on interpreting pet food labels, starting with the importance of the AAFCO statement, a simple statement indicating 1) whether the food is complete and balanced, 2) what type of pet the food is for and 3) for what life stages the food is suited for.

One of the next big items to address is the ingredient list… Just like ingredient lists of foods designed for human consumption, items on the ingredient list are listed from most to least, by weight.  Items at the top of the list (major ingredients) should be clearly recognizable by name, while items towards the end of the list (minor ingredients) may include vitamins and minerals or preservatives and stabilizers and, as such, may have less commonly-identifiable names.

AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) set definitions for just what makes up these major ingredients, which are classified as either raw or rendered.  Despite the “raw” label, even raw products are cooked during the manufacturing process to destroy any harmful bacteria, while “rendered” products are cooked and then heated in order to remove most moisture and fat, leaving behind protein and minerals, which are then ground into a uniform size.  

An important side note here — truly raw diets cannot typically achieve AAFCO certification, but there are a few companies out there that have gone the extra step to ensure that they still meet the AAFCO guidelines for being nutritionally complete and balanced. However, we do not typically recommend feeding your pet a truly raw diet for public & patient health reasons. A great article on this topic from a veterinary nutritionist can be found here.

Raw

• cooked during manufacturing process to kill harmful bacteria

Meat

• skeletal muscle, tongue, diaphragm, heart, esophagus, with or without overlying sinew, nerve tissue, and fat
• “meat” may be from cattle, pigs, sheep or goats
• if from another species (i.e. venison, bison) must be specifically identified

Meat Byproducts

• clean parts other than meat – i.e. lungs, spleen, liver, brain, kidneys, blood, bone, stomach and intestines freed of their contents, lungs
• if from another species (i.e. venison, bison) must be specifically identified

Poultry

• flesh and skin, +/- bone, excluding feathers, head, feet, and entrails
• may include the bone when ground (may be called deboned poultry if bone is removed)

Poultry Byproducts

• heads, feet, cleaned  viscera, “giblets” (heart, gizzard, liver)

Rendered

• cooked and heated in order to remove most moisture and fat, leaving primarily protein and minerals, then ground into a uniform size (aka – ‘meal”)

Meat Meal

• “mammalian tissues, excluding added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents…”
• may be from animals other than cattle, pigs, sheep or goats without indicating which species
• must meet certain minimum requirements for crude protein, fat, fiber, phosphorous, and calcium

Meat and Bone Meal

• Similar to meat meal, but can include bone in addition to whole carcasses
• Also has minimum requirements for crude protein, fat, fiber, phosphorous, and calcium

Animal Byproduct Meal

• definition designed to cover individual rendered animal tissues that do not meet the criteria set forth elsewhere
• “may include whole carcasses, but often includes byproducts in excess of what would normally be found in meat meal and meat & bone meal”

Poultry Byproduct Meal

• clean parts of the carcass such as necks, feet, eggs, intestines (excludes feathers)
• Also has minimum requirements for crude protein, fat, fiber, phosphorous, and calcium
• Similar to poultry byproducts, except in rendered form

Poultry Meal

• Similar to poultry, but in rendered form
  • flesh and skin, +/- bone, excluding feathers, head, feet, and entrails

So, as you can see, some definitions/classifications that commonly get a bad rap — i.e. “byproducts” — are actually some of the most nutrient-rich portions of an animal. In fact, these are often the tissues an animal in the wild would go for first — liver, spleen, kidneys — as they tend to be much more nutrient dense than skeletal muscle.  Thus, it is important to keep an open mind when coming across the term “byproducts.”

Visit AAFCO and FDA for further information about food labels and ingredients.  

Have a question about animal nutrition? Clarendon Animal Care wants to help! Submit your question to info@clarendonanimalcare.com and use “ARLnow” in the subject line. Look out for the answer in an upcoming column.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

One of the most common questions we’re faced with is “What’s the best food for my pet?”  Though a full discussion of what makes up the ideal diet is well beyond the scope of our space here (and also hugely open to debate), we’d like to take the next few installments to address some of the more basic pet-food basics as well as answer specific questions you may have. Please submit specific questions via email, and we will address in subsequent posts.

Pet food companies deserve an A+ in the marketing department, but with all the great marketing, it takes a bit of work to sift through what really is the best nutrition for our pets.  When looking at a bag of dog food, how do you know if it’s a “good” food or not?  Our goal over the next few posts is to help you become more comfortable when evaluating a pet food label.

Perhaps the most important information on a bag of pet food is the AAFCO Statement.  The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is a voluntary membership association of local, state and federal agencies responsible for regulating the sale and distribution of animal feeds.  They regulate not only the sale of pet food, but also livestock feeds (though they are responsible for regulation, they actually have no regulatory authority — this falls upon the FDA).

The AAFCO Statement is a declaration of nutritional adequacy which indicates 1) whether the food is complete and balanced, 2) what type of pet the food is for, and 3) for what life stages the food is suited for.  This statement is typically found in rather small print on the back of a bag of pet food (and if it is not found, this warrants further investigation before purchasing the food, in our opinion).

“Complete and balanced” means that all necessary nutrients for the particular life stage are included, and in appropriate ratios.  Different life stages have different requirements for quantities and ratios of key nutrients.

When addressing life stages, the different categories for both dogs and cats are:

• gestation
• growth
• maintenance
• all life stages

While an “all life stages” food is tempting, we typically recommend feeding for the more appropriate life stage – you wouldn’t necessarily want a six-month-old infant eating the same diet as a 75-year-old adult.

The AAFCO Statement will appear one of two ways:

1. “[Name]  is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog (or Cat) Food Nutrient Profiles for [life stage(s)],” indicating that laboratory analysis have verified the nutrient profiles.

1. “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate [Name] provides complete and balanced nutrition for [life stage(s)]” indicating that actual feeding trials have been completed and shown to provide appropriate nutrition for test animals.

For more information on interpreting pet food labels, visit AAFCO’s website at aafco.org.

Have a question about animal nutrition? Clarendon Animal Care wants to help! Submit your question to info@clarendonanimalcare.com and use “ARLnow” in the subject line. Look out for the answer in an upcoming column.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Two weeks ago, we talked about bringing home a new baby.  But what about a new pet?  Sometimes this can be even more stressful for the existing pet(s) than a tiny new human in the house.  

When considering adding a new pet to the mix, here are a few things to think about:

• Consider the needs of your existing pet:  Is is a young dog who needs a playmate to burn some energy?  Is it an older cat who rules the roost?  Are there two pets that have been bonded for years?  Is your dog cat-friendly or your cat dog-friendly?  
  • It may be advisable, when adding a pet of the same species, to get a pet of the opposite sex.  While not guaranteed, this may favor a more peaceful existence.  
  • While adding a puppy or kitten where there is an existing senior pet may be tempting, with the thought that it may bring out the inner puppy or kitten in the older pet, there is also the possibility that the younger pet will “pester” or otherwise provoke the more senior pet.  Therefore, the personality of the older pet should help dictate what type and age of pet is added to the mix.  
• Do you have the appropriate “resources” for two pets,  or are you willing to add them?  It is important for each pet to have it’s own crate or home base, feeding area, bed or lounging area, and toys (though they may decide on their own to share).
  • A general rule of thumb is to have one more litter box than the number of cats you have — do you have the space for these additional litter boxes?
  • Do you have space for an extra bed or crate for a second dog?  
  • Can you separate the two pets during meal time?  

Once you do make the decision to bring a new  pet home, the next step is to figure out how to best introduce them.  

• Dogs are best introduced on neutral territory.  Going for a walk is a good way for two dogs to become acclimated to one another without really interacting face-to-face. Try not to let them interact head on until the end of the walk, when hopefully a bit of the excess energy and excitement will have worn off and there will be less chance for an incident.
• When adding a cat to a home with an existing dog or cat, it’s best to prepare a separate room or area for the new cat — with bed, food, litter box, toys, etc. Ideally, this area should be gated off but not entirely closed off from the rest of the house or the area that the existing pet has access to.  This way, the pets can sniff each other through the gate, but aren’t forced into an interaction.  This should continue for at least several days, or until hairs aren’t raising on either side of the gate.  Once the gate comes down, it is advisable to be sure there are “escape routes” for the smaller/more submissive pet. 

Once introduced, it is important to let your pets establish their own hierarchy.  Trying to do this for them can sometimes lead to worsening dominance issues between them. Additionally, where it may be tempting to favor the more submissive pet, this can actually make matters worse; it’s often better to feed and/or deliver attention to the dominant pet first.  

Despite all these precautions, adding a second pet is a fun and exciting time and a great addition to the family.  Many rescue groups and shelters will allow potential adopters to bring their pet to meet the new pet, or even bring the pet home on a trial basis.  Additionally, these groups are great resources for recommendations on what type of pet may fit in best with your household and existing pet.  We recommend taking advantage of all the resources they have to offer!  

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

So your furry child is about to have a human child to contend with… how do you get your fuzzy companion to adapt and accept this attention-needy kid? How do you come to terms with the fact that try as you might, you really may not be able to play with your cat or walk your dog nearly as much?

Hopefully the tips below will give you something to help the transition and give you a few things to think about when considering human child/fur-child families:

Pregnancy Considerations

• Research has shown that moms who have pets while pregnant and children exposed to pets from birth to age one have lower risk for certain allergies and asthma!
• Toxoplasma transmission from cats gets a lot of attention… but Toxoplasma is a very rare disease in indoor cats (especially if your house doesn’t have a rodent problem and you don’t feed your cat a raw-meat diet.) We’ve been asked by pregnant moms about Toxoplasma antibody testing of cats to help determine risk, unfortunately that doesn’t tell us a whole lot about the presence of Toxoplasma in the gut — and is truly a poor test in determining risk of transmission to humans. Likely, a better way is to do several fecal parasite screens during pregnancy to see if the cat is shedding the Toxoplasma cysts in their feces. Additionally, the cysts shed in the feces take 48 hours to become infective — if the litter box is cleaned daily there is almost no risk of transmission. Please note that a pregnant woman is much more likely to get Toxoplasma from undercooked meat and from gardening (secondary to feral or outdoor cats defecating in the garden) than from her indoor cat. Now, we still don’t recommend pregnant women clean out the litter box — but know the real risk of transmission from an indoor cat is very low.
• Start working with Fido on any behavior training as early as possible! Knowledge of basic commands will be very beneficial once the baby arrives (i.e. sit, stay, and even hand targeting). If you have an anxious or fearful pet, start working with a behaviorist to help address those problems well in advance of your baby’s arrival for a smoother introduction.
• If your pet currently eats in an area that will be accessible to the child once he/she starts moving around the house, it’s best to move the feeding station ahead of time to an area that will be off-limits to the baby.
• Cats can also be trained for the impending situation of a human child and creating an environment around the house where the cat can feel safe (i.e. perches, hideaways) will give the cat places to escape to. Move litter boxes out of the way — but not too out of the way — and out of reach of little baby hands!
• Understand that despite our best efforts to keep up those long walks, attention and bonding time we have with our pet that there probably will be less time for that (and that is okay!). Do the best you can and if possible, try to plan and practice for changes in your routine. If your pet is social, he or she may enjoy going to doggy daycare or having a puppy playdate a few times a week to get out some extra energy.  

Baby’s Almost Here!

• Getting your pets used to some of the new smells can be helpful. Washing your hands every so often in baby soap, applying a small amount baby powder or baby oil to your skin will help them acclimate to some of the new smells in the house.
• Getting your pets used to new noises can also be helpful — play recordings of crying, cooing and giggling babies. Use the rocker, play with some of those noisy toys and turn that baby swing on every now and then. Use positive reinforcement for good, calm behavior during these activities.

Bringing the Baby Home – The Introduction

• If you have a hospital or out-of-home birth, and it’s possible to take a swaddle cloth home to have your pet sniff ahead of time, that is often advisable.
• If you have a home birth, the choice to keep your pet home with you during labor or have them boarded or stay with a friend/relative is a toss up. You know your pet’s personality best and often the strength and type of human-animal bond that exists between you and your pet is the biggest determinant.
• A lot of how kids and pets get along together is shaped by how you work with your child to interact with your pet. Start early with appropriate behavior and pet interaction and never leave your child alone or unattended with your pet.
• Introducing your pet to your baby should be done in a calm, relaxed manner; and positive reinforcement for good behavior goes a long way.
• Be sure to have a good understanding of dog and cat body language and make sure that you intervene (i.e. remove child) and do not encourage continued interaction when your pet is displaying overt signs of stress.

And for those of you pet owners who don’t have human children — please be sure to enjoy your night’s sleep for us… one of these days our own kids will grow up and sleep all night and maybe even past 6:30 a.m. (at least we hope so!)

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

With all the hot weather we’ve had recently, you may notice that your pet is drinking more water than normal… this likely is just par for the course, but when should you be concerned?  How much is too much?  

Polydipsia is the medical term for increased thirst, and polyuria the term for increased urination.  It is often very difficult at the onset to know whether the problem lies primarily with increased thirst (increased thirst drives the increased urine volume) or increased urination (increased urine volume drives increased thirst, as urine is not being concentrated effectively); problems that lead to increased urination tend to be more common causes in both dogs and cats.  The symptoms of polyuria and polydipsia are frequent causes for veterinary visits; often it is urinary accidents or inappropriate urination that may finally bring the problem to light, as quantifying thirst and/or urination can be quite tricky at home, especially if there are multiple pets in the household.  

Some of the more common reasons for increased thirst include behavioral issues (“psychogenic polydipsia” (i.e. drinking for “fun”),  fever, pain, or neurological disorders.  Increased urination can be caused by something as simple as a urinary tract infection or as complex as: electrolyte abnormalities, diabetes mellitus (insulin-dependent diabetes), kidney insufficiency or failure, liver disease, elevated thyroid level, drugs (such as the common corticosteroid prednisone, or the anti-seizure medication phenobarbital), infection of the uterus, or abnormalities of the body’s resting steroid levels (Cushing’s disease and Addison’s disease).

When a patient initially presents for the complaint of increased thirst and/or urination, the first step is to verify that there is, in fact, increased thirst or urination. The diagnostic work-up is started with a physical exam and thorough history to determine if there are any other factors that may be contributing to the symptoms. We then often have the owner quantify the water intake over a several days period (which is much easier in a single dog or cat household), in addition to running a urinalysis to determine how well the urine is concentrated. One of the most basic tests that can be run is to check the concentration of a first morning urine sample (often the most concentrated sample of the day) – if it is dilute then we know there is an issue and additional work up is warranted. Blood work is often part of the initial work-up as well, as we can assess kidney and liver function, and rule out conditions such as kidney failure or diabetes as well as to give clues about other metabolic disorders that would necessitate further investigation.

As mentioned above, quantifying thirst and especially urination may be difficult; but, since they go hand-in-hand the majority of the time, quantifying thirst is a bit more straight-forward and is a good starting point. Normal water consumption can be very variable, but averages around 50-60 mL/kg/day for both cats and dogs (i.e.  4-¾ to 5-¾ cups per day for a 50 pound dog).  Anything over 80-100 mL/kg/day is considered polydipsia (i.e.  7-½ to 9-½ cups per day for that same 50 pound dog).

Though it can be tempting to restrict water intake in a pet that is having urinary accidents in the house or needing to go out with increased frequency, this is very rarely recommended, and in the rare cases where it is indicated it should be done only with supervision from your veterinarian. Restricting water in the face of underlying metabolic or infectious diseases could lead to dehydration (sometimes severe) and decompensation of the underlying problem.

So, if you are concerned that your pet might be hitting the bowl a little too hard be sure to talk to your pet’s veterinarian!

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Following up on our previous article about intestinal parasites, we thought a brief summary of diarrhea in general would be warranted.

What IS diarrhea?

Diarrhea is the abnormal (often rapid) movement of ingesta through the gastrointestinal tract, resulting in increased frequency or volume of stools with decreased form. Diarrhea can be the result of small intestinal disease/inflammation, large intestinal disease/inflammation or a combination of the two.

What are the most common causes of diarrhea?

There are far too many causes to cover in our limited space, but the most common include intestinal parasites, dietary indiscretion and rapid diet change.  Viral infections, bacterial infections, and toxin ingestion are also relatively frequent causes.  Most often, whatever the initial trigger, the diarrhea is perpetuated by an imbalance in the normal bacterial population in the gut — the “bad guys” — i.e. Clostridium, etc. — take over the “good guys” — i.e. Lactobacillus, etc.  These bacteria then secrete toxins that can perpetuate the diarrhea.

Chronic diarrhea is defined as diarrhea lasting longer than three weeks.  The potential causes for chronic diarrhea include the above causes, but also may warrant further investigation into the possibility of a food allergy/sensitivity, or of an underlying condition such as inflammatory bowel disease, pancreatic insufficiency or other system or metabolic disease.

A fecal sample is typically the first diagnostic test ordered, as this screens for intestinal parasites such as roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, Giardia, and Coccidia.  Additional tests such as blood work, x-rays, or even fecal pathogen testing or cultures (to look for Salmonella, and other bacterial and viral infections) may be recommended based on the symptoms. In some cases biopsies of the small and or large intestine may be indicated to diagnose certain inflammatory conditions or cancer.

What can you do at home?

There are several things that you can do at home that may help improve an uncomplicated case of loose stools.  A bland diet is one of the mainstays of treatment.  We typically recommend a 50/50 mixture of boiled boneless/skinless chicken breast and white rice, divided into several smaller meals throughout the day.  If your pet has a possible allergy to chicken, you can discuss with your veterinarian alternatives to chicken.

We are often asked if Pepto-Bismol or similar products can be administered at home.  These products are strongly NOT recommended, as they often contain salicylate, an aspirin derivative which can be toxic to dogs and cats and may even exacerbate the GI upset. Imodium (loperamide) can be used safely in some breeds, but please consult with your veterinarian first as certain breeds are predisposed to inherited genetic metabolic defects in which this drug can cause severe neurologic problems.

What treatment will the veterinarian prescribe?

Well, that depends on the clinical symptoms and diagnostic results of fecal and other testing. We often treat with antibiotics, bland diet and probiotics – but may also need to reach for prescription diets (e.g. hypoallergenic diets, low fat diets, highly digestible diets), anti-inflammatories such as steroids, deworming medications and vitamin B-12 injections to name a few therapeutic options. When diarrhea is secondary to an underlying metabolic or systemic disease – that underlying disease needs to be addressed. We tailor our treatments to the individual pet and make sure we are assessing response and making changes to treatment in a timely manner.

When should you be concerned?

We recommend calling your veterinarian after two consecutive episodes of diarrhea, or right away if the diarrhea is grossly bloody or black/tarry or is accompanied by other clinical signs such as decreased appetite, vomiting, lethargy, or pain.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Most of you have likely brought a stool sample in to your pet’s annual veterinary visit, perhaps wondering in the back of your mind why it’s necessary to check a stool sample on an annual basis, especially if you have a cat or dog that spends minimal time outdoors.

Roundworms, hookworms, Giardia and coccidia are the most common intestinal parasites in our geographical region, and all but coccidia also have the potential to be zoonotic — transmissible to human beings — thus deserving special attention.

Roundworms, most specifically Toxocara canis (in dogs) and Toxocara gati (in cats), were found to be present in 1/79 (1.2%) of dogs and 1/26 (3.82%) of cats in Arlington County. Infection can occur via ingestion of infective eggs, in utero transmission (dogs only), or transmammary transmission, which is why it is seen so commonly in puppies and kittens. Infection can cause pot-bellied appearance, failure to thrive, and gastrointestinal signs; puppies infected in utero are most likely to be severely sick. Roundworm eggs are often found in soil, including houseplant potting soil (a source of infection for indoor-only cats). Children, with their propensity to put things in their mouths, are most at risk for zoonotic infection. Due to the complicated migration of roundworm throughout the body tissues upon ingestion in an inappropriate host, symptoms in humans can include visceral larva migrans and ocular larva migrans. Ocular larva migrans is a cause of retinal damage and partial blindness in children and can be mistaken for the more severe disease, retinoblastoma (cancer), resulting in an unnecessary removal of the eye.

Hookworms (Ancylostoma species.), found in 2.21% of dogs and 0.51% of cats in Arlington County, are transmitted via ingestion of infected eggs, as well as transmammary transmission; the larval stages of hookworm also have the ability to penetrate intact skin to infect their host. Hookworms suck blood from the wall of the intestinal tract and can lead to severe anemia and even death in young puppies; older dogs may show diarrhea as the primary sign. Hookworms are most often contracted by humans when they directly penetrate the skin, leading to cutaneous larva migrans.

Giardia, a protozoan parasite, is a common cause of intestinal symptoms in cats and dogs — primarily diarrhea, and less commonly vomiting, inappetence, or weight loss. According to the CAPC, 15.6% of dogs and 10.3% of cats with compatible symptoms tested positive for Giardia, though there are distinct regional differences, with infection being more common in some areas than others. Giardia is the most common intestinal parasite of humans in the U.S., causing similar gastrointestinal signs to those seen in our pets, such as diarrhea, bloating and cramping. Transmission in both humans and dogs results from ingestion of cysts shed in the feces of infected animals, typically from contaminated water. Fortunately, Giardia subspecies are quite species-specific so transmission between humans and pets is uncommon in healthy individuals. Children, elderly, or otherwise immune-deficient individuals are most at risk for transmission from an infected pet.

Coccidia (Isospora species), another protozoan parasite, though not thought to be zoonotic, is a common intestinal parasite, especially in puppies and kittens who do not have fully developed immune systems. It is also more common in pets from intense breeding, hoarding and shelter situations as it is very hardy in the environment. The most recent prevalence data from CAPC showed that Coccida was present in approximately 3% of dogs and cats in Pennsylvania (the closest state with prevalence data).

In general, pet-to-human transmission of roundworms, hookworms and Giardia can be minimized by removing feces from the environment on a daily basis and hand-washing after any potential contamination. Once in the environment, it is extremely difficult to decontaminate the environment; however, if stools are picked up immediately there is little chance of transmission to other pets and/or humans. It is also important to dispose of feces with the municipal waste, as it otherwise has the potential to contaminate water sources.

Other intestinal parasites found less commonly in our pets include whipworms (dogs), tapeworms, stomach worms, Toxoplasma (cats), and Strongyloides. In addition to your pet’s veterinarian, the Companion Animal Parasite Council is a fantastic resource for all things parasite-related.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

Ticks are one of the most common ectoparasites (on the skin) found on pets.

They are of particular concern because they can transmit potentially serious diseases to both humans and their pets. While it is fortunately very unlikely for a tick to transmit a particular disease directly from a dog to a human, or vice versa, our pets can act as important sentinels of disease in our environment — i.e. if a dog has tested positive for exposure to the causative organism of Lyme disease, it indicates an environmental risk to the human parents as well.

The four most common ticks found in this part of the U.S. and the diseases they can carry and transmit are:

• the Lone Star tick (Amblyomma americanum) – Ehrlichiosis, Cytauxzoonosis – cats, and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF)
• the American dog tick (Dermacentor variabilis) – RMSF, Ehrlichia, Babesia and possibly Cytauxzoonosis
• the deer tick/black-legged tick (Ixodes scapularis) – Lyme and Anaplasma
• the brown dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus) – RMSF, Ehrlichia, and Babesia

(Side-by-side pictures of the ticks described above can be found here)

According to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, 1 in 35 dogs in Arlington County has tested positive for exposure to Ehrlichia species, 1 in 18 has tested positive for exposure to the organism that causes Lyme disease (Borrelia burdgorferi), and 1 in 458 has tested positive for exposure to Anaplasma.

Many of the tick-borne diseases, including Lyme, Ehrlichiosis, Anaplasmosis, and RMSF, can cause abnormalities in the white blood cells, red blood cells, and/or platelets, as well as fever, enlarged lymph nodes, enlarged spleen, joint pain, and/or general malaise.

Tick paralysis is a potentially serious condition caused by a neurotoxin from the saliva of certain ticks, typically after they have been attached for at least several days. Symptoms start with weakness and can progress to paralysis and even death if the dog is unable to breath. Removal or death/detachment of the tick will result in a quick improvement of symptoms, often within hours.

(more…)

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

We are frequently asked for our opinion on pet insurance so we figured this would be a great topic for discussion this week… though it nevertheless remains a topic wide open for debate.

Veterinary pet insurance is a bit more comparable to dental insurance than our own general medical health insurance plans, in that the client pays the provider/veterinarian directly, files a claim, and then is reimbursed directly from the insurance company. A few hospitals may process the claim for the owner, but for the most part the hospital is uninvolved in any processing of the claims, other than providing a diagnosis and records to the insurance company when requested.

The other main difference from human health insurance is that pet insurance is for the most part designed to cover accidents, illnesses and injuries, not the routine wellness and preventative care (annual exam, vaccinations, preventatives) that one typically budgets for when acquiring a pet. It is the accidents/illnesses/injuries that come up unexpectedly and can be difficult to budget for ahead of time that most owners want the insurance against.

Each company works a bit differently in regards to yearly premiums, deductibles, pre-existing conditions, and coverage limits. It is very important to read all the fine print with any policy you are considering to be sure that there are not breed or other exclusions that may pertain to your pet. We recommend discussing the policy you are considering with your veterinarian if you have any questions.

So, all-in-all, is pet insurance worth the money? It’s impossible to say, since by nature we can’t predict which or when accidents, illnesses, or injuries may occur. The argument can certainly be made that in some cases it may be less pricey to simply set aside the money that would go towards the monthly or yearly premium so that it’s there for an emergency, but then again, a young pet can be just as likely to have an accident or serious illness as an older one who has more “reserves” in such an emergency fund.

We tend to recommend insurance the most strongly to pure-bred pets with well-known breed dispositions to certain conditions or diseases. The other question to ask yourself is that if you had to go to one of the local emergency clinics with a serious emergency or other significant medical issue — are you prepared and able to foot a several thousand dollar bill (potentially >$5,000 depending on the emergency) without getting reimbursed for any part of it down the road?

The following is a list of questions to consider when evaluating a potential pet insurance company and if their plans are right for you and your pet:

• Are there any breed exclusions?
• What is the policy for preexisting conditions?
• What is the deductible?  Is this yearly, or per problem?
• Will the premium go up yearly?
• What is the turnaround time to get reimbursed?

Lastly, most policies won’t issue new policies on pets over a certain age, even if otherwise healthy.  The best time to sign up is usually when your pet is a puppy/kitten, before any “pre-existing conditions” have been identified.

For a side-by-side comparison of the various plans available click here. And for more information or a discussion on how the coverage a specific plan may benefit your pet, as well as to get an idea of medical costs of various illnesses, talk to your veterinarian. Hopefully this will aide in making an informed and educated decision to determine if obtaining veterinary/pet insurance for your fur-baby is the right one.

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: Healthy Paws is a new column sponsored and written by the owners of Clarendon Animal Care, a full-service, general practice veterinary clinic. The clinic is located 3000 10th Street N., Suite B. and can be reached at 703-997-9776.

It’s not quite summer… but it sure feels like it!! This week we’ve got some summertime tips and advice to keep you and your fur-kids happy and healthy.

The Weekend Warrior — Just like most people, intermittent and inconsistent exercise can lead to overexertion in our pets! If being active isn’t part of your pet’s regular routine, going for that 6.5 mile hike up Old Rag can lead to overexertion, overheating and injury. Be cognizant of your pet’s limits and if you’re planning a big hike or a long run, doing a bit of training ahead of time will go a long way in preventing injury.

High-Rise Syndrome — As it gets nicer outside, apartment cats are more likely to be let out on the balcony and windows are left open. While we always tease that cats have nine lives and are deft when falling… creating a safe balcony and making sure windows are securely screened is paramount to reducing the risk of injury or death related to a fall.

Heat Stroke and Other Heat-Induced Maladies — The hottest part of the day tends to be from 10am – 4pm and is the worst time of the day to be doing outdoor activities with your pet. Long walks, jogging, and hiking should be done early in the morning or in the evening. Certain breeds of dogs (and cats!) are more sensitive to the heat than others – breeds with “smooshed faces” (i.e. Pugs, Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Himalayan and American Shorthair cats) are already predisposed to respiratory problems/difficulty… and when it gets hot those problems can be far more apparent. Additionally, you should NEVER leave your pet alone in a parked car. Even with the windows open that vehicle can become furnace-like, and quickly!

Sun & Contact Burns — Pets can get sunburn too! Dogs and cats that have thin hair or light skin are at increased risk for developing sun-induced skin cancer. The ears and nose tend to be the most susceptible. Talk to your veterinarian about using sunscreen/sunblock on your pet. Additionally, our dogs and cats can develop painful burns on their feet from walking on hot pavement. Minimizing exposure to hot pavement, walking in the morning and evening and using booties can reduce that risk.

Swimming — Swimming can be a great way to cool off for both you and your dog…however not all dogs know how to swim well! Be sure to stay within the comfort level of your dog and to use a life vest if needed. Additionally, be aware that not all bodies of water are ideal to be swimming in. Certain gastrointestinal parasites, such as Giardia, flourish in streams and small bodies of water. Bathing & ear cleaning after swimming, especially if the water source is not ideal, can also help prevent skin and ear infections.

Fleas, Ticks and Other Bugs — Fleas and ticks start to come out in full force as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep up regular use of your flea and tick preventive as that is their primary defense against many diseases, including Lyme. Additionally, other bugs (flies, mosquitoes, etc..) can bite and cause allergic reactions. If you have a pet that seems sensitive to bug bites, be sure to chat with your veterinarian about a Benadryl dose you can safely use in your pet.

Grooming — Shaving can seem like a quick/convenient way to cool your pet down – but remember that fur helps protect your fur-kid from sunburn! Cats should generally only be shaved if they’re matted or not grooming adequately – not for the heat.  And certain breeds of dogs with “double coats” (e.g. Huskies, Akitas) should NOT be shaved as their coat actually helps keep them cool in the heat!

Hydration — Finally, just as with us, hydration for our pets is paramount in the warm weather. Be sure to have clean water available and accessible at all times for both you and your pet!

We hope you and your fur-babies have a safe and enjoyable summer!

The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.